“Male coquetry”. Brooch, 2019. Leather, paintbrush hair, hematite, metal. Leather, embroidery and jewellery works. mm 70x70x5
I interviewed Marie Masson, one of the seven winners of Preziosa Young 2020, the international contest organised by Le Arti Orafe since 2008, which gives to emerging talents more than one occasion to show their work and to take part in the contemporary scene of research jewellery.
This year the jury was composed by jewellery experts, like goldsmith artists or teachers, namely Giovanni Corvaja, Eugenia Gadaleta, Kazumi Nagano, Cóilín O’Dubhghaill, Renzo Pasquale, Carla Riccoboni, Sam Tho Duong.
Next week, a selection of the winners’ pieces will be shown in the PREZIOSA space at Inhorgenta fair 2020 (Munich, 14.02 – 17.02), while the complete exhibition and a high quality catalog will be presented during Florence Jewellery Week 2020 (Florence, 28.05 – 4.06).
Stay updated because the prizes still at stack are many: LAO SPECIAL PRIZE will give one of the selected candidates the opportunity to spend three months as “artist in residence” in Florence. Furthermore, thanks to a collaboration agreement between LAO and the Inhorgenta fair, one of the selected artists will get a free exhibition space for its 2021 edition (INHORGENTA PRIZE).
Male coquetry. Brooch, 2019. Leather, latex, horse hair, clear oilcloth, metal. Leather, embroidery and jewellery works. mm 70x70x5
- When dealing with contemporary goldsmith artists or jewellery designers, the first curiosity is to know how one has chosen ornament as the main means of expression. Why jewellery in particular and what was your training in this field?
Male coquetry. Brooch, 2019. Leather, wood, metal. Leather and jewellery works. mm 70x70x5
MARIE MASSON: I did my trainings in the National School of Art and Design in Limoges where I got my B.A and M.A design in the contemporary jewellery departement with tutor Monika Brugger. This is one of only two contemporary jewellery workshops in french art schools. Also, I did my studies internship in the Ceramics, Jewellery and Furniture Departement of the Central Saint Martins School in London with tutor Caroline Broadhead. I chose jewellery as medium in my artistic work when I was at my second year of studying. I wanted to speak about the body, postures, gestures, singular / soft materials etc. It was the revelation when I met Monika and when the jewellery workshop was opened!
- You play with the various fields involved in the issue of body decoration, mixing linguistic codes with the aim of questioning the nature of the jewel. Could you tell us about your way of ‘blurring’ the boundaries of jewellery?
MARIE MASSON: I like to use and divert many codes in different artistic areas (jewellery, decorative arts, design, fashion, art, painting domains, …). The goal is to offer various visions and interpretations of the same piece. Everybody can identify himself and create his own history through a jewel.
Cockade. Brooch, 2017. Leather, moulting pheasant feathers, hematite, metal. Leather, jewellery and plumasserie works. mm 80x80x50x5
- Nowadays when thinking about the differences between genders we have to be open-minded, and jewellery, as a way to express our identity, must reflect this new awareness. In your work the idea of overcoming hierarchies is always present, like those between human being and animal. Could you explain better?
Miniature landscape. Brooch / Pendant, 2018. Leather, moulting pheasant feathers, metal, collar studs. Leather, pheasant feathers, metal, collar studs. mm 60x60x5
MARIE MASSON: The adornment is universal. Each of us is a singular person in a collective world. Human and animal natural attributes are the first visible adornments. I highlight individual and natural wonders to make one feel special and universal. When I speak about and divert military hierarchic codes between genders, it’s to explain the importance of wearing a jewel and delete differences.
- Is there an artist or an artistic tendency that inspires or influences you particularly?
MARIE MASSON: Hard question! I’m inspired by adornment, art, design, fashion, decorative arts, costume history, etc. For example, the miniatures in painting history, hair jewellery, surrealism movement, fashion haute couture… Many artistic areas can influence me during the creation process.