Preziosa 2017

Florence Jewellery Week

Firenze, 24-28 of May, 2017
Curator, Giò Carbone

Connecting worlds. Artistic research, crafts, design, new technologies. Dialogue and the confrontation between tradition and contemporary research in jewellery are the focus of the FJW 2017 project.

Arata Fuchi, Robert Baines, Sibylle Umlauf, Tasso Mattar, Danni Schwaag and a group exhibition Jwahr with young Iranian artists from Aria Gallery in Teheran curated by Kevin Murray Contemporary Swedish Silver: Erik Tidäng, Lena Jerström, Tobias Birgersson, Klara Eriksson, Petronella Eriksson, Pernilla Sylwan, Maki Okamoto curated by Inger Wästberg

Florence Jewellery Week, Connecting worlds. Artistic research, crafts, design, new technologies.
Concept by Giò Carbone

The aims
Tradition, artistic research, new technologies

Dialogue and the confrontation between tradition and contemporary research in jewellery are the focus of the FJW 2017 project.
The exhibitions and all the other moments in the programme will place the emphasis on the interactions between tradition and artistic research, manual skills and new technologies, and between the different meanings and symbolical values that jewellery can take on in different cultural and geographical environments.
From a technical point of view, in recent years the experimental space has greatly expanded, partially thanks to the creative freedom offered by new technologies and the use of new materials. From a formal point of view, the outlines of artistic research and craftsmanship overlapping, to produce new creative perspectives.
The exhibitions, the invited artists, the lectures and workshops in the programme will follow the main thread of these hybrids, which can be explored in all directions without any prejudice.

The content and general architecture of the project
FJW is the container for various events dedicated to the cultural aspects, the symbology and meaning which jewellery has always been bearers.

The project includes:

Exhibitions by contemporary artists from various countries;
Lectures and presentations;
Workshops led by invited artists/lecturers/curators.

Other sections dealing with PREZIOSA 2017

Craftsmanship and Cultural identity
The current socio-economic conditions, the forced and unavoidable globalisation and the changes in traditions and contemporary cultural conceptions are producing a new generation of craftspeople/artists, nomads, multitasking, eternally connected and competent users of the most innovative technologies.
FJW will host some of these new creators, selected through an international competition.

Our identity. The value of art and crafts of our time
In vast areas of the world crafts activities are still intimately connected with the lives of people and their communities, and maintains an active role in the transmitting and safeguarding the cultural values of those peoples. These riches and peculiarities are a human heritage and should be protected.
FJW will host some exhibitions of traditional jewellery/goldsmithery from areas that are culturally and geographically distant from the European continent.


Robert Baines

High Wire

Wire traps space, Line claims space, Line calibrates space, Line captures a face!
Endangered Pink, Fresh Meat, Gold from the Kosmos has a material cultural history for the goldsmith to investigate. The new jewellery can be invented and illustrated with fictitious evidence. Other jewellery structures enter historic locations and change history. How can jewellery be a measure of a time.
(By Author)

Short Bio

Living Treasure: Master of Australian Craft, goldsmith and emeritus professor at RMIT University, Robert Baines has maintained a national and international profile with exhibitions, awards, lectures and publications for more than forty years. His works are in prestigious public collections in Great Britain, Germany, France, Poland, USA, New Zealand, and Australia. In the research areas of artist goldsmithing and archaeometallurgy he received a Winston Churchill Study grant (1979) and this was followed by Senior Fulbright and Senior Andrew Mellon Conservation Fellowships at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NY. In 2004 he had an exhibition of his research, Entdecker der antiken Goldschmiedetechnik, at the prestigious Staatliche Antikensammlungen, München, Germany.
In Germany he has received the Bayerischer Staatpreis gold medal (2005); Friedrich Becker Preis (2008), and Herbert Hofmann Preis(2013). Most recent books published are Bracelet-Java-la-Grande (2006) and More Amazing Schmuck Stories by Robert Baines (2009) and Fabulous Follies Frauds and Fakes (2013).

Arata Fuchi

Solo Exhibition

Arata Fuchi creates hand-fabricated jewelry-as-sculpture. His work is diverse, including granulated textured silver and gold jewels, geometric silver forms that frame intricately meshed pure gold networks, and fantastical organic forms, often appearing outsize or overgrown. The works are intimate in their detail, with miniscule granules of pure gold set in silver, or tiny granules embedded in large forms, all of which Fuchi fabricates by hand, working with microscopic level magnification. The unique texture of many of his jewels is the result of silver pulverization, in which Fuchi covers the surfaces with silver powder, creating a softened, textured surface that invites one’s touch. (Patricia Kiley Faber / Aaron Faber Gallery)

Short Bio

Born in Japan, 1975, “My work receives inspiration from the Japanese sense of beauty, that is 'beauty of form that nature not artifice creates' and the 'vitality of nature'. To express these, I developed the ancient technique of South Korea that is called Kum-Bu (Keum-Boo) in my own way. From trial and error, I created an original technique I call pulverization. For this technique, the surface is covered with silver (metal) powder to make the surfaces rough and irregular. With this irregular shadow a peculiar feeling is expressible.” (Arata Fuchi)

Tasso Mattar and Danni Schwaag

iNACARME! An obsession by mother of pearl

Artists: Tasso Mattar, Danni Schwaag
Curated by Tasso Mattar

There is a material which they are both working with and fascinated by: MOTHER OF PEARL or like the Spanish say: NÁCAR!
In the exhibition ¡NÁCARME! in Florence Danni and Tasso will present a variation of their work made by different generations in different periods, with their own view on the material mother of pearl. “A material which has an impressive beauty – it seems not to be possible to make something “ugly” out of it. “Tasso started working with organic material in the 80´s, first with bones and later on with mother of pearl. He ordered a shell with the sonorous name: "Meleagrina Margaritifera“. When the giant shell arrived and lay in all its glory in front of him, Tasso was unable to use any tools to work on it. That was the beginning of his “big shell” project.
After a few weeks of daily “communication” with the beautiful piece Tasso made six strokes with a felt pen and divided the shell into six pieces, from those he developed four brooches and two rings. Immediately Tasso bought four new shells which were grinning on him like devils so finally the devil masks have been created.
Danni´s so to speak obsession for mother of pearl started during her studies in Idar-Oberstein, when she was looking for a pearl necklace – not a classical one. She wanted to do one on her own. Visiting all the gemstone shops in Idar-Oberstein she found a beautiful shell: “Pinctada Maxima” – from which Danni developed a pearl necklace, a chain made out of many oval rings cutting out of the material.
In her thesis entitled with “intuition”, Danni worked her way, as it were, through the material. She re-interpreted the concept of “pearls” by alluding to them will still, however, retaining a connection to the material itself. The result was, in particular, to accentuate the visual and haptic qualities of mother of pearl. In her new series “organ” she was shaping forms out of mother of pearl inspired by human organs. She mirrored a part of the piece, which is made out of galalith, a milk stone, a material which has been used in the art deco era. Danni is fascinated by the variety of the material, its luster, the sensitivity and brittleness. “
(Text by Authors)

Tasso Mattar short biografy
Tasso Mattar studied sociology at the University of Cologne (1969-75) and jewellery design at the University of Applied Arts at Pforzheim (1975- 79).
He was well noted for his thematical exhibitions. We remember his bone exhibition "jewellery in a butchers" 1986, which became a legendary jewellery event. This presentation of the "precious" in the "trivial world" is a model of Mattars special aesthetical approach which includes everyday objects as well as every day life. His artwork from bone, concrete, soapstone, amber, granite etc. are collected by museums and private collections. He directed workshops in Singapore, Israel, Finland, France, Switzerland, Germany and Luxembourg. He lives and works in a small village in Spain: Artà/Mallorca.

Danni Schwaag
*03.09.1981 in Dülmen (DE)
Since 2009 lives and works in Bremen (DE)

Sibylle Umlauf

Solo Exhibition

The goldsmith Sibylle Umlauf sees her work as a metamorphosis, as a dynamic principle: She contrasts dark and hard iron with soft, shining and warm gold. By using forging, chasing, etching and inlaying techniques she gives each individual object its own unique signature.

Short Bio

Born in Stettin, in that time Germany, today Poland.
Sibylle Umlauf lives and works in Berlin and Italy. She studied goldsmithing at the “Fachschule für das Edelmetall Schwaebisch Gmünd and Fine Arts” at the Hochschule für Bildende Künste Berlin from 1964 - 1970.
She taught Arts at the Fachhochschule für Sozialpädagogik Berlin until 1990.
First Award 1999 for applied Arts Berlin - Brandenburg
Exhibitions in Germany and foreign countries.
(Text written by author)

Contemporary Swedish Silver

New approaches to an enduring tradition.

Curated by Inger Wästberg.
Artists: Erik Tidäng, Lena Jerström, Tobias Birgersson, Klara Eriksson, Petronella Eriksson, Pernilla Sylwan, Maki Okamoto.

The oldest known Swedish silver mine dates from about 1360. Having reliable sources of the metal is but one reason for the success of Sweden´s silversmiths.
Another of greater importance is the high quality of their education, primarily through the Konstfack (University of Art Craft and Design).
At Konstfack all the participants in the exhibition got their higher education.

LOD - a group of seven silver artists who share a combined studio and a gallery in Stockholm - seeks to keep silver production alive and create a higher interest for their skills. The silver is handled without gloves to demonstrate that it is not something to be put away in a closet, but be used all the time in daily life. They are revising the appearance of traditional products. Good examples are Klara Eriksson’s bowel and whisk. And why not have a sink stopper in silver and rubber?
“You have to create a teapot before you are a real silversmith”, says Petronella Eriksson. In the exhibition several teapots are reworked and given new shapes as in Erik Tidäng´s constructivistic or Petronella Eriksson´s soft and organic form. To merge materials as a method breaks down previously established hierarchies. Lena Jerström mixes silver, cork and textile in her teapot and Klara Eriksson tree branches and silver.”
(Inger Wästberg)

Inger Wästberg short biografy

Inger Wästberg is an art historian, has a master exam on contemporary jewellery. She has in different positions worked with information and advocacy. She has been a member of Stockholm city council, vice chairman of Stockholm University, senior advisor to the minister of Social Affairs and director general for the Office of the Disability Ombudsman. She is a member of The Global Leadership Council at The Museum of Arts and Design, New York and a member of the advisory board at Ädellab, University College of Arts, Craft and Design, Stockholm. Inger Wästberg has also written books on disability legislation and on New York.

Jwahr, New Iranian & Persian Jewelry

A group of young Iranian artists by Aria Gallery in Teheran.
Curated by Kevin Murray

Artists: Anahita Anasseri, Atoosa Mokhaberi, Baharak Omidfar, Ghazaleh Nasseri, Mahnaz Seyed Ekhtiary, Narges Asadinejad, Niloofar Naadi, Saiedeh Davoudi, Shahrzad Aliyari Maleki, Sharmagh Eskandarian.

This exhibition show the current state of contemporary jewellery in Iran.
Curated by Kevin Murray, in partnership with the Mahe Mehr Institute, Tehran.
“Contemporary jewellery is undergoing radical new development as artists are emerging from non-Western countries with different ideas of adornment and creativity. This is an opportunity to consider this diversity and explore possibilities for engaging the public in these new symbolic practices”.

Kevin Murray short biografyDr Kevin Murray is an independent writer and curator, Adjunct Professor at RMIT University and Research Fellow at the University of Melbourne. Major current roles are managing editor for Garland Magazine and the Online Encyclopedia of Crafts in the Asia Pacific Region. In 2000-2007 he was Director of Craft Victoria where he developed the Scarf Festival and the South Project, a four-year program of exchange involving Melbourne, Wellington, Santiago and Johannesburg. He has curated many exhibitions, including 'Signs of Change: Jewellery Designed for a Better World'; 'The World of Small Things'; 'Symmetry: Crafts Meet Kindred Trades and Professions'; 'Water Medicine: Precious Works for an Arid Continent'; 'Guild Unlimited: Ten Jewellers Make Insignia for Potential Guilds'; 'Seven Sisters: Fibre Works from the West'; 'Common Goods: Cultures Meet through Craft' for the 2006 Commonwealth Games and Joyaviva: Live Jewellery Across the Pacific that toured Latin America. His books include Judgement of Paris: Recent French Thought in an Australian Context (Allen & Unwin, 1991), Craft Unbound: Make the Common Precious (Thames & Hudson, 2005) and with Damian Skinner, Place and Adornment: A History of Contemporary Jewellery in Australia and New Zealand (Bateman, 2014). He is currently a Senionr Vice-President of the World Craft Council Asia Pacific Region, coordinator of Southern Perspectives and Sangam: A Platform for Craft-Design Partnerships. He teaches at RMIT University, the University of Melbourne, Swinburne University and University of New South Wales.


an event dedicated to the jewellery world and the
relationships between artistic research, crafts and design

FLORENCE 24 – 28 MAY 2017

Connecting worlds. Artistic research, crafts, design, new technologies.
Dialogue and interactions between tradition and artistic research, manual skills and new technologies, and between the different meanings and symbolical values that jewellery can take on in different cultural and geographical environments are the focus of the FJW 2017 project.



24-28 May, 11:00-18:00 - LAO IN PALAZZO CAPPONI - Via Michelozzi 2

Exhibitions Opening
Wednesday 24 May

5:00 PM - BOTTICELLI GALLERY - Via Maggio 39
6.00 PM - PALAZZO COVERI GALLERY - Lungarno Guicciardini 19
7.00 PM - BELLINI MUSEUM - Lungarno Soderini 5

Exhibitions dates and hours

25 - 27 May, 11:00 – 19:00
28 May, 14:00 – 18:00

Arata Fuchi solo exhibition
Robert Baines solo exhibition
Sibylle Umlauf solo exhibition
¡NÁCARME! An obsession by mother of pearl
Tasso Mattar e Danni Schwaag
Curated by Tasso Mattar
Jwahr, New Iranian & Persian Jewelry.
A group of young Iranian artists by Aria Gallery in Teheran.
Curated by Kevin Murray

25 - 27 May, 11:00 - 18:00
28 May, 14:00 - 18:00

Preziosa Young Contest
Group exhibition, PY2017 winners
Fang Jin Yeh, Qian Wang, Shachar Cohen, Xiaodai Huang

25 - 27 May, 11:00 - 18:00
28 May, 14:00 - 18:00

Contemporary Swedish Silver
New approaches to an enduring tradition
Artists: Erik Tidäng, Lena Jerström, Tobias Birgersson,
Klara Eriksson, Petronella Eriksson, Pernilla Sylwan, Maki Okamoto
Curated by Inger Wästberg

Conferences: 26 - 27 May

Santo Spirito square

All the conferences are translated from/to English/Italian/English

26 May
11:00 Inger Wästberg, Sweden
12:00 Martina Dempf, Germany
Jewellery and wood - An artistic challenge
14:30 Kevin Murray, Australia
Global art jewellery
15:30 Roberta Bernabei, Italy/GB
Integrating traditional and high-tech goldsmithing techniques in
Wearables and jewellery that aid wellbeing
16:30 Robert Baines, Australia
Jewellery on the high wire
27 May
10:30 OMA, Osservatorio dei Mestieri d’Arte, Firenze.
Presentation of the 4th edition of the “OmA Contest 2040”
11:30 David Loepp, USA/Italy
Experimental replication of a granulated gold bead from an ancient tomb in Oman
12:15 Maria Laura La Mantia, Italy
The moon, the sky and the way up stars. A short digression about the use of celestial symbols through the item or gems in jewellery, between the 18th and the 20th century
14:30 Maria Cristina Bergesio, Italy
Alice in art jewelleryland
15:30 Shruti Agrawal, Italy/India
Body adornments, body paintings. Permanent and semi-permanent markings
16:30 Tasso Mattar, Spain/Germany
Jewelry inspired by nature
Closing speech by Petra Holscher, Curator of Die Neue Sammlung. The Design Museum at Pinakothek der Moderne. München, Germany



Kevin Murray - Promise object - 23 May, 9:00 - 13:00

Robert Baines - Post graduate discussion seminar - 25 May, 9:00 - 13:00

Martina Dempf - Touch wood - 29-30 May, 9:00 - 18:00

Tasso Mattar - Enjoying organic material - 29-30 May, 9:00 - 18:00

The Master craftsmen space - 28 Maggio 14:00 – 18:00

LAO OPEN SPACE - Via dei Serragli 104
Live demonstration and workshops by craftsmen

Giuseppe Casale - Hand engraving
Filippo Vinattieri - Hand engraving
Marco Paci - Florentine mosaic
Francesco Pinzauti - Stone setting
Luigi Barato - Hammering forming and anticlastic forging
Monica Amato - Stone cutting
Giotto Scaramelli - Basketry
Antonio Spitaletta - Cameos engraving
Tommaso Brogini - Madonnaro
CFC Firenze - “Al buio” florentine mosaic and “scagliola”
Atelier degli Artigianelli - Laboratories
Ass. Paesaggi e Giardini - Gardening for children “Orto in cassetta”
In collaboration with “Orto Bioattivo”

After hours events

Lieder Um Liebe di Johannes Martin Kränzle (2016)
10 love songs with lyrics by Bertold Brecht for soprano and string quartet
Soprano: Nicola Beller Carbone -
String quartet "Carlo Cavalieri" Orchestra, Grosseto -
First violin, Claudio Cavalieri
Viola, Riccardo Cavalieri
2nd Violin, Massimo Merone
Violoncello, Michele Lanzini


Patronages, collaborations and sponsors

Presidency of the Italian Republic.
Ministry of Cultural Heritage, Activities and Tourism.
Ministry of Education, Universities and Research.
Tuscany Region.
City of Florence.
Chamber of Commerce of Florence.
OMA, Osservatorio dei Mestieri d’Arte, Florence, Italy.
ELIA. Art Schools Association.
IED, Istituto di Europeo di Design.
Die Neue Sammlung - The Design Museum at Pinakothek der Moderne, Munich, Germany.
Ermitage Museum, Saint Petersburg, Russia.
Inhorgenta Fair Munich, Germany.
Ganjam Nagappa & Son, Bangalore, India.
KLIMT02, Barcelona, Spain.
Associazione Amici di Boboli, Florence, Italy.
Amici Museo dell’Ermitage, Florence, Italy.
The Twocites Gallery, Shanghai, China.
ARK Sign, Florence, Italy.